What is so incredible
about desert towers? Layton Kor said “one tower is worth five big walls.” Maybe
he is right? What ever the case desert towers have some sort of magical draw to
me. I love desert towers isolation from everything around them. Vertical
elevators of adventure straight up. There is nothing like sand in the corner of
your eyes, caking in your ears, irritating your nostrils, and rubbing the skin
off your body in squeeze chimneys. Desert towers are always a complete
experience.
Not to long ago Terray Sylvester and I climbed the Long Dong
Wall on the Kissing Couple located in Colorado
National Monument just outside of Grand Junction Colorado.
The climb is nothing but fun from start to finish.
The tower can be approached in a couple ways. We chose to park
at the Upper Monument Canyon
trailhead near the Coke Ovens Overlook and walk down from the Rim Road into the
canyon. One could also rappel directly into the canyon if so desired.
The first pitch of the climb is the crux and offers steep
sandy crack climbing with a sporty finish protected by a bolt. I thought the
first pitch was incredible and worthy by itself. The pitch is long and sustained.
A couple pitches of chimneying and scrambling bring you to a
5.8 crack in styrofoam like rock followed by another chimney of sorts.
The top
of this pitch is called the “belfry,” a window like area through the towers
visible from the road. The architecture of rock here is truly fascinating and creates
astonishing exposure.
The next and final pitch is hard to imagine but it tunnels
through the tower on guano covered cracks to a climatic overhanging move that
involves transferring from the face you are on to a face behind you in a wild
display over the void.
The summit is a special place of isolation, solitude, wind
and sensational views.
Descending requires a few rappels. The first being free
hanging for most of the way. Manage the rope well. Rope eating cracks abound littered
with the remnants of old stuck cut ropes.
The Lond Dong wall is a great adventure with some excellent
climbing along the way.
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