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Saturday, June 23, 2012

The Kissing Couple



 What is so incredible about desert towers? Layton Kor said “one tower is worth five big walls.” Maybe he is right? What ever the case desert towers have some sort of magical draw to me. I love desert towers isolation from everything around them. Vertical elevators of adventure straight up. There is nothing like sand in the corner of your eyes, caking in your ears, irritating your nostrils, and rubbing the skin off your body in squeeze chimneys. Desert towers are always a complete experience.


Not to long ago Terray Sylvester and I climbed the Long Dong Wall on the Kissing Couple located in Colorado National Monument just outside of Grand Junction Colorado. The climb is nothing but fun from start to finish. 


The tower can be approached in a couple ways. We chose to park at the Upper Monument Canyon trailhead near the Coke Ovens Overlook and walk down from the Rim Road into the canyon. One could also rappel directly into the canyon if so desired.

The first pitch of the climb is the crux and offers steep sandy crack climbing with a sporty finish protected by a bolt. I thought the first pitch was incredible and worthy by itself.  The pitch is long and sustained.


A couple pitches of chimneying and scrambling bring you to a 5.8 crack in styrofoam like rock followed by another chimney of sorts. 

 
The top of this pitch is called the “belfry,” a window like area through the towers visible from the road. The architecture of rock here is truly fascinating and creates astonishing exposure.


 







 
The next and final pitch is hard to imagine but it tunnels through the tower on guano covered cracks to a climatic overhanging move that involves transferring from the face you are on to a face behind you in a wild display over the void. 










The summit is a special place of isolation, solitude, wind and sensational views.  


Descending requires a few rappels. The first being free hanging for most of the way. Manage the rope well. Rope eating cracks abound littered with the remnants of old stuck cut ropes. 


The Lond Dong wall is a great adventure with some excellent climbing along the way.

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